Well...you should be aware of it ...the set ted volt can not match perfectly ,you had better get a transformer..
I will assume you mean that this socket that is a receptacle for plugging a (lamp) cord into. By calling it 110, you don't mean it is officially rated to operate at 110 volts, and you don't mean it is actually providing 110 volts, because both these ideas would be quite uncommon, and I don't think you are using a meter to find out what actual voltage is in the receptacle. I think you just mean that the receptacle is one that people commonly call 110 volt.
Next I'm not sure what you mean by 115 volts working there. If you mean an item that identifies itself as rated for operating using 115 volts, then the answer is yes -- it would generally be able to run OK for an actual voltage from about 110 to 125 volts. A lot of these voltage levels are "nominal" -- that is, they cover a range in the neighborhood of the figure. Why does no one want to commit to an exact figure? Because voltage arrives in a bit of a range from one house to the next. Likewise, lamps and motors are designed to get along with a range of voltages; otherwise they would not get along in the real world of the variations there are in the power supply.
Next I'm not sure what you mean by 115 volts working there. If you mean an item that identifies itself as rated for operating using 115 volts, then the answer is yes -- it would generally be able to run OK for an actual voltage from about 110 to 125 volts. A lot of these voltage levels are "nominal" -- that is, they cover a range in the neighborhood of the figure. Why does no one want to commit to an exact figure? Because voltage arrives in a bit of a range from one house to the next. Likewise, lamps and motors are designed to get along with a range of voltages; otherwise they would not get along in the real world of the variations there are in the power supply.