You need to bleed the lines, and to find this out, since I don't know how, just know that this is what has to be done, call a plumber and see if they will tell you how. Hope this helps.
Don't ask me how it works but on this old house they showed a specilized valve for just this reason for a house that had baseboard heaters..some how it allows the air to escape and let the water fill the pipes without chatter/banging or you could go through the house and put in new water line hangers that cusion the pipes and hold them without letting them bang around...this valve is like a air bladder to release air from the water lines while allowing the water pressure to flow..water hammer arrestors...www.plumbingsupply.com
Call a plumber who knows how to do the job.You can find a plumber here.
Sometimes doing it yourself can be good ,sometimes bad if you are not sure of what to do.
Sometimes doing it yourself can be good ,sometimes bad if you are not sure of what to do.
Here goes but I'll probrably confuse you and you'll have to get a plumber. First, get a garden hose and place the male end outside or in a utility sink. Second hook up the female end to one of the purge valve above the circulator. If the moron plumber did his job right there should be a shut off below the purge valve above the circulator. Shut all shut offs below each purge valve. Starting with the first one, open the purge valve (if you have zone valves, shut the power to the boiler then lift the little lever on the zone head to the open position). Before purging, replace all hy-vents. One above the air scoop and maybe one on top of the boiler. Also replace the temp/pressure gauge if its messed up. A new relief valve wouldn't hurt either. If all is well, once you open the purge valve (and zone valve if required) water should start flowing. Lift the lever on the water feed straight up.(this will give you full water pressure). Let the water flow while kinking the hose a little to help you hear the air passing through. Open the shut off to that zone above the circulator just a little and immediately close to get any trapped air .(do this a couple of times while purging each zone). When it sounds like the air is out, shut the feed lever, shut the purge valve, put the zone head lever back into auto position (if required). Move on to the next zone. All the while you must watch the pressure gauge so it doesn't get to 30 psi or your relief will open and spew water all over the place. Try to keep the pressure around 10 psi. The pressure will go up as the water heats up. When you've purged all three zones, fire the boiler watching the relief. You may have to shut the boiler down once or twice to relieve pressure by cracking the boiler drain until it reaches temp( usually 160 - 180). Got it? Think you can handle it? Thats what I thought. call your fuel supplier and tell them you have no heat and need your zones purged.