This would primarily depend on the exact type of washer that you own. Each one may need parts unique only to itself. There is some debate both for and against using cheaper, non-branded spare parts as well. The layout may affect the means of repair, too: Loader or side loader?
This is a partial list of the solutions that may apply to your particular model:
• Loose weights.
Concrete weights are included inside washing machines to act as balance. They are bolted in, and if the bolt should corrode or fail, the concrete then causes the machine to wobble and the basket to appear loose in the spin cycles. You need to check the bolt(s).
• Transmission Failure.
The transmission sends the power of the motor to the drum of the machine. If the transmission has failed, there is often oil on the outside of the drum. To check this, remove the drum. This can be a radical procedure as it may involve stripping down the entire washing machine and removing the outer casing.
• Broken Mount.
The whole drum will need to be removed. A broken mount isn't the cheapest thing to replace but it may be cheaper to do it yourself than to bring in a professional.
• Drive Belt failure.
The drive belts in machines can and do degrade and expire. Check the pulley belt to see if it has corroded in the damp, warm conditions of the machine. If it has melted, beads of rubber can fall onto the drum and make it behave erratically.
• Bearing Failure.
If a bearing has become damaged, it may either strip rubber from the belt or actively damage the drum. Check the bearings; there may be tell tale signs such as flecks of damaged material on the drum.
This is a partial list of the solutions that may apply to your particular model:
• Loose weights.
Concrete weights are included inside washing machines to act as balance. They are bolted in, and if the bolt should corrode or fail, the concrete then causes the machine to wobble and the basket to appear loose in the spin cycles. You need to check the bolt(s).
• Transmission Failure.
The transmission sends the power of the motor to the drum of the machine. If the transmission has failed, there is often oil on the outside of the drum. To check this, remove the drum. This can be a radical procedure as it may involve stripping down the entire washing machine and removing the outer casing.
• Broken Mount.
The whole drum will need to be removed. A broken mount isn't the cheapest thing to replace but it may be cheaper to do it yourself than to bring in a professional.
• Drive Belt failure.
The drive belts in machines can and do degrade and expire. Check the pulley belt to see if it has corroded in the damp, warm conditions of the machine. If it has melted, beads of rubber can fall onto the drum and make it behave erratically.
• Bearing Failure.
If a bearing has become damaged, it may either strip rubber from the belt or actively damage the drum. Check the bearings; there may be tell tale signs such as flecks of damaged material on the drum.
